Mucho Gusto, Vienna!

Today I’ve learned another value of food. Food quickly introduces you to a place and culture in a direct, genuine way.

We arrived in Vienna early Wednesday morning, having taken the overnight train from Cologne. As we began exploring Vienna with sleepy heads and crusty eyes, I was completely overwhelmed. Full of massive stately 18^th century museums, palaces, opera house, and medieval cathedrals, Vienna was a lot to take in. I felt like an awe-struck child, wandering aimlessly throughout the winding streets. Starving, we looked up a cheap cafe to grap a bite and decided on Trzesniewski, a small, discreet cultural institution, serving various pates and spreads on rye bread alongside mini mugs of beer. Women in yellow aprons meted out the rectangle rye bread, topped with mashed eggs, salmon, tuna, carrots, mushrooms, and speck. The place with packed so we stood by the heater and gobbled our food. It was delicious!

Now I don’t feel quite so lost; now I have a tangible feel of Vienna; now I feel connected to this vast bustling city, all because of a little piece of bread topped with tuna and mushrooms and a swig of beer.

In Spanish, when you’ve been introduced to a person, you can use ‘mucho gusto’ to say ‘nice to meet you.’ Now, after our little lunch at Trzesniewski, I feel I can say, ‘Mucho gusto, Vienna!’

Devonian White Christmas

I was very nervous to spend Christmas this year away from home, family, and the warm California Christmas weather I’ve grown up with. It was indeed very difficult to be away. But Alun and Devon made my first English Christmas an enchanting and magical one, full of much cheer and incredible food!

This December has been the coldest on record for England and, as you can see from a previous post, there has been plenty of snow. Devon received a heavy dousing of snow right before we arrived and it remained the whole week we were there, creating a magical wintery setting. The roads were icy, restricting travel and forcing us into a lovely, leisurely Christmas.

Christmas for me, like most of us, is full of hustle and bustle. And Christmas Day is usually even busier, driving here and there, between parents’ houses, in-laws, church, etc. This year, in the village of Bishopsteignton, Christmas was a much different pace. We were still busy preparing for meals, shopping, cooking, decorating, and visiting lots of people, but there was a steadiness or slowness to the pace, maybe because everyone lives down the street from each other, maybe because the cold snowy weather restricted excessive travel, I don’t know. But it was certainly a peaceful, intimate, English village Christmas.

We cut our own 4 foot tree from a lot in Newton Abbot. We drove to the South Hams and picked up a goose from a family whose children used to be Alun’s pupils. I purchased a pair of Wellington Boots (Wellies) so I could properly tromp around in the snow, and we took several stunning walks around the village through the snow on Christmas Day and Boxing Day. We took in the stunning views of Dartmoor covered in snow during a cautious drive. We enjoyed midnight mass at Shaldon, and sipped on homemade eggnog afterwards with Nick and Alun in front of a roaring fire. We feasted Christmas morning on Buck Fizzes (mimosas), homemade cinnamon rolls, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs while entertaining several visits from friends of Alun. Later we went to the pub up the road for a pint with the neighbors. It was time for the goose in to get in the oven, and while Alun worked on the feast, Ryan and I took in the majestic views of our snowy walk above the village. In the evening, Bob, a sharp witted, kind 90 year old man joined us for an English Christmas feast of goose, ham, roasted potatoes and parsnips, brussel sprouts, cabbage, applesauce and goose gravy! It was a magical meal, filling us all with merriment and an overwhelming sense of blessing. My Christmas pudding finished off the night with a success!

We finished the weekend with an enchanting walk on Boxing Day along the Exe estuary, along blanketed icy fields, surrounded in a thick hazy fog that made the whole experience rather ethereal. It was magical and the perfect ending to a weekend full of great meals and great company, all at a pace that allowed for the blessings and spirit of Christmas to be fully appreciated. My lesson this Christmas: Tis a gift to be simple—with a full belly in front of a roasting fire!

Proper Christmas Pudding!

Christmas Pudding. Ah, that beloved dessert that embodies the very essence of being English at Christmas...so rich, so decadent, so time-consuming, and so potentially awful if not done properly! I knew my Christmas experience in England would not be complete unless I attempted to make this traditional and quintessential English dessert, and so, in the face of potentially ruining Christmas with an improper pudding, I offered to make the Christmas Pudding that we would eat at Alun's.

Let me introduce the process of making a Christmas pudding with a few pros and cons:

Pro: you can make this well in advance, even up to three weeks before Christmas, as it contains so much brandy that it is self-preserving, leaving you lots of time to do last minute shopping the week of Christmas

Con: to make a proper Christmas Pudding takes time; set aside a full day to make this

Pro: with all the dried fruit and brandy, it can be very delicious!

Con: with all the dried fruit and brandy, it can be very awful.

Christmas Pudding has acquired a bit of a bad reputation which I think is mostly due to the mass quantities of commercialized Christmas puddings on the market. Like most traditional, classic baked goods, if it is done right, with quality ingredients, not rushed, and with much love, it will come out beautiful! So do not be afraid to try this out, for there is good reason why this is such a long enduring Christmas classic: done properly, it is sinfully delicious!!!! This one turned out perfect!

Proper English Christmas Pudding

This is my slightly modified version from Delia:

4 oz. Breadcrumbs

4 oz. Shredded Beef Suet (Atorra)

2 oz. Self-rising Flour

8 oz. Brown Sugar

1/4 tsp. + pinch Cinnamon

1/2 tsp. Nutmeg

1/4 tsp. Cloves

1/4 tsp. Ginger

4 oz. Raisins

4 oz. Sultana, Golden Raisins

4 oz. Dried Apricots

4 oz. Dried Cranberries

2 oz. Mixed Peel

2 Tbsp. Brandy or Rum

1 apple, peeled, cored, diced

Lemon Zest from one lemon

Orange Zest from one orange

2 Eggs

5 oz. Stout

1 tsp. Vanilla

Directions:

Begin by combining all the dry ingredients in a large bowl (breadcrumbs, suet, flour, sugar, spices). In a side bowl, combine all the dried fruit with the brandy (plus some if you'd like it to be boozy) and let soak. Whisk together the eggs, stout, and vanilla. Combine the apples, zest, soaked dried fruit and remaining brandy with the dry ingredients. Stir until combined. Pour the egg and stout mixture into the large bowl and stir until thoroughly combined. Cover the bowl and let sit overnight.

The next day, butter a 2 pint (4 cup) basin/mold and pack the pudding mixture into the greased mold. Wrap the entire bowl with parchment paper and foil or even better, with the saved wrappings from sticks of butter. Place the wrapped pudding in a steamer over a pot full of boiling water and let steam for 8 hours. Check the water level frequently to make sure the pot doesn't run dry. Let cool completely and re-wrap with new foil. Store in a cool dark place for up to 3 weeks until Christmas! On Christmas Day, re-heat by steaming again for 2 hours. Remove from mold, pour a couple of tablespoons of brandy on the pudding and light on fire! Slice and serve with brandy butter.

Stollen Away from Home!

I don't know if it is my German heritage, but nothing says Christmas more to me than a marzipan stollen. I love stollen. Every year I look forward to buying a stollen from Trader Joe's at Christmas. But a couple of years ago I suddenly thought, 'why not give it a go?' It turns out to be a pretty straight forward yeast bread, but like most things that you start making at home, you'll never buy a store bought one again!

As this is my first Christmas away from home, I knew I had to make a stollen here in England.

Chopping the dried fruit, as the bits stuck to my finger, I started to relax; kneading the soft yellow dough, it was as if I was the one getting a massage; brushing the risen loaves with melted butter, my gooey fingers felt anointed with merriment; and sifting powdered sugar on the cooled baked loaves, it was as if I was watching the snow fall from the sky. As I sat down to eat a slice, I felt completely embraced in peacefulness and Christmas spirit. It was the closest I could get to being home, and it felt pretty good.

I use the recipe in The Joy of Cooking as a base and add whatever dried fruit or nuts I have on hand, so feel free to mix it up. Irma calls for mixed peel and slivered almonds, but I opted out of these this time. You can use rum or brandy and I like to use lots of marzipan. May the peace and warmth of the season fill you as you make these loaves, wherever you are. Enjoy and Merry Christmas!

Christmas Stollen

Adapted from The Joy of Cooking

yields 2-6 loaves (depending on size)

1 Tbsp. + 1 tsp. Dry Active Yeast

1 1/2 c. milk, scalded and cooled to 110F (lukewarm)

1 c. sultanas (golden raisins)

1 c. raisins

1 c. chopped dried apricots

3/4 c. sugar

1 1/2 c. butter

3 eggs

3/4 tsp. salt

3/4 tsp. lemon/orange zest

2 Tbsp. rum or brandy

6-8 cups of all-purpose flour

Directions: (do not be put off by the length of the directions, I just like detail!)

Combine all the dried fruit in a bowl and soak in brandy or rum (you may use more than the amount listed if desired, I always do). Set aside to let soak. Meanwhile, combine the lukewarm milk with the yeast and let sit ten minutes or until the yeast has dissolved. You may need to stir the yeast to assist it dissolving. Add one cup of flour to the yeasty milk mixture, stir to combine, and let sit until doubled in size, anywhere from 10-30 minutes (make sure the mixture is in a bowl large enough to accommodate it doubling in size). Cream the butter and sugar together with a hand beater until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one by one, mixing thoroughly in between each addition. Add the salt, zest, soaked fruit and its liquid, and a little almond or vanilla extract if so desired. Stir with a wooden spoon. Begin adding the flour, one cup at a time, until you get a soft, slightly sticky dough that comes together. Turn the dough out onto the counter with some flour and knead, for about ten minutes, or until you get a nice smooth dough, adding flour as needed if the dough gets too sticky to handle. Cover the dough with plastic wrap or a towel and let sit until doubled in size, about an hour. Portion the dough out into two to six portions, depending on how large you want your loaves.

Flatten each portion out into ovals, lay a strip of marzipan on one side, and fold one third of the dough over the marzipan and onto the other two-thirds. Do this to the remaining portions; place on a baking sheet, brush with melted butter, and let rise until doubled again, perhaps another 30-60 minutes, depending on how warm your kitchen is. Bake your loaves in a 350F oven until golden brown, about 30-45 minutes, depending on how large your loaves are. Once out of the oven, brush with melted butter, dust with powdered sugar, and let cool completely. Once completely cooled, dust with powdered sugar again and wrap in foil or wax paper to store.

Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow!

We have had some very exciting weather here in England the last few days! Heavy snow, below freezing temperatures, and lots of ice has meant that Heathrow Airport has been shut down for the past three days, the Eurostar scaled back to three trains a day, and most buses and trains canceled! In London we had between 5 and 6 inches of snow on Saturday while Devon, which rarely gets any snow in the winter, saw over 8 inches of snow on Sunday! We've dealt with these white blankets by doing what most people seem to do: stay inside! Here are pictures looking out our flat onto our street.

On Saturday, however, we braved the snow and cold to explore the Real Food Christmas market on the Southbank. Ruben and Ryan had several fine snow fights and we warmed ourselves with Creole veggie fritters, le diot patate raclette (a French potato and sausage mess, at left), mulled wine, and churros con chocolate! Though freezing, we really enjoyed the market and all the artisan food vendors. Some how food always tastes more delicious when experienced within the clutches of severe weather. That must be why camping meals always taste so fantastic, even if it's just a can of Dinty Moore Stew or corned beef hash!

On Tuesday morning, with Heathrow still closed and St. Pancras still jammed, we went to Paddington Station to catch our train to Bishopsteignton in Devon where we will be spending Christmas with Alun. The snow gods were smiling on us and we were able to get our train without trouble to Devon. Riding the train through the countryside we saw field after field of white. It was beautiful.

There isn't much snow in Teignmouth and Bishopsteignton, but everything is a soft, misty gray, covered with frost. Last night we had some freezing fog and woke up to hoar-frost, in which everything was covered in ice even though it didn't snow last night. I didn't know such phenomena existed! I am learning much about cold weather and different types of ice formation. Needless to say, I bought my very first hot water bottle today, and can't wait to go to bed tonight. Time to tuck in, stay warm, and let the Christmas baking begin!

These are my snow prints from when I took the trash and recycling out. I don't know if there was much point though, as the trash-men and postmen are nowhere to be found!

Ode to the Hot Water Bottle

A quick post about a non-food related, but exceptionally exhilarating new discovery that deserves its own separate post: hot water bottles. While not a new invention (containers for warmth in bed date back to the 16th century), and not exclusive to England, having grown up in Southern California where a cold house is 65F (18C), I've never owned, let alone seen a hot water bottle before!

When we arrived last weekend in chilly Tollesbury, with the temperature registering at 14F (-10C), David offered me a hot water bottle, encased in a knitted hot pink covering.

"I like the hot pink," I told David.

"Well I just bought it anticipating your delicate sensibilities," he replied with a smile.

I tried to defend my sensibilities as being very strong, but who was I kidding? I couldn't wait to get into bed with that hot water bottle at my feet. I watched with awe as David poured freshly boiled water into the inner rubber lining. Pushing the water to the opening to let any air escape, he screwed on the cap with the precision of a scientist. As I lovingly carried the hot pink water bottle upstairs, it grew warmer and warmer and I could barely contain my amazement and excitement!

In bed with the bottle at my feet, the chill from the sheets immediately evaporated and my icy feet were warm and cozy in minutes. The area around the bottle started getting untouchably hot, so I moved the bottle around. With careful navigation and timing, I was able to get the entire bed thoroughly warmed, relieve my lower back aches, and comfort my digesting stomach all in a matter of minutes! "What an invention! Pure genius," I thought! Except now I was too excited to go to sleep. The warm embrace of the bed quickly lured me to sleep and when I awoke in the morning, refreshed by an incredibly peaceful night's sleep, I noticed a sliver of warmth still emanating from the pink bottle. Wow! I was beyond impressed. See my morning-after face in the above photo--that's the face of a restful, warm night of sleep.

Just when I thought I was the queen of sleep, a new device has showed me the truth: I have much to learn about warm sleeping technologies in England. And its eco-friendly too! You don't have to run the heater all night with a hot water bottle at your side!

I'm jumping into bed with a hottie tonight!

More Snow and Lots of Food in Essex

Last weekend, as the snow continued to fall and temperatures continued to drop, we escaped to Tollesbury in Essex to visit David. The snow was piled high and the temperature even colder (-10C when we arrived Friday night in Witham). But like any visit to see David, the weekend couldn't have been warmer and more full of merriment, with meal after delicious meal, many roaring fires, and the discovery of hot water bottles (the most ingenious invention)!

David braved the icy roads to pick us up from the train station and as we drove the narrow, snow-covered, hedgerow-lined roads back to Tollesbury, cutting through blanketed fields and frozen fog, I realized we were entering a magical wintry scene that felt worlds away from London.

David welcomed us that evening with a meal to really warm us through: mashed potatoes, peas, roasted carrots and parsnips, and the best chicken and ham pie ever! David is a true epicurean with, like all excellent chefs, a standard for quality that is uncompromising. His whole wheat pie crust, topped with sesame seeds, was flaky yet rich and with a crumb so tender it melted in your mouth. Eating in front of his roaring wood fire with glasses of red wine, we were thoroughly warmed.

Our plans for a foodie exploration of the area on Saturday were postponed til Sunday and so Ryan and I walked around Tollesbury, along the coast and harbor, through churchyards and graveyards, and indulged our giddiness in the plethora of snow.

Here I am feigning innocence before hitting Ryan with a superbly packed snowball. That evening David orchestrated a feast of a meal for a large group of us at the Maypole, a sit-down Chinese restaurant that David kept referring to as 'blingy.'

On Sunday, with the snow mostly melted, we packed in visits to the Wilkin and Sons jam factory in Tiptree, Blackwells rare breed farm near Coggeshall, the Food Company in Colchester, and a visit to Father Antony at St John's Greek Orthodox Monastery in Tolleshunt Knights.

I tried making friends with the geese at Blackwells Farm but they mostly just squawked and hissed at me. Our visit to the Food Company, a mega foodie market/shop/cafe, included yummy paninis, espresso, mince meat pies and a hot chocolate exploding with marshmallows from an enthusiastic waiter whose favorite word was 'awesome.' This was nicely juxtaposed to the humility that marked our hosts at the monastery where we enjoyed thoughtful and genuine conversation over milk-less tea with Father Antony and Father Melchizedek. And as if our adventurous, exploratory day wasn't enough, David labored over another

flawless meal of steak, braised cabbage with bacon, mashed potatoes, caramelized onions and mushrooms, and roasted sweet potatoes and parsnips that we heartily enjoyed in the company of Sue and Simon. We finished the evening with churros and chocolate ganache that I made with the assistance of David's well equipped kitchen. It was another merry evening, complete with another roaring fire.

As we took the train back to London that evening and I reflected on the wonderfully rich and full weekend we had with David, the many scenes and layers of Essex we had seen, I realized that cold weather isn't so bad. With the right meals, company, and a hot water bottle or two, even the coldest winter can be made warmer and merrier than a summer's day!