Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Thanksgiving, Barmy Millie, and Snow

Where has November gone? Somehow this month just whizzed by. I've been so busy with school, friend visits, Real Bread, Thanksgiving, and staying warm, that I didn't realize how long it had been since my last post.

Mandy, my dear friend and fellow pastry chef, came to London with her husband Corey to visit for 10 days. We visited many great food markets, cozy pubs, and cute neighborhoods. Like every experience with them, their visit was filled with exploration, silliness, adventure, and good old fashion fun! And at the heart of their visit was a memorable Thanksgiving, full of warmth, merriment, laughter, and really good food.

We hosted twelve people for Thanksgiving at our tiny flat and were surprised at how comfortably we all fit in! Shannon and Sasha shared the cooking duty with me (braving the tube at rush hour to bring their contributions), Mandy and I worked on pies in the early morning, the turkey perfumed of rosemary and garlic, and the whole feast came out bountiful, rich, and delicious. Karen and her family completed our company and the whole evening seemed to twinkle all around the edges with warm magic (I'm sure the mulled wine contributed to that effect). We coveted the particularly thick English whipped cream atop our pies (I think the cream was extra high in fat because it was so stiff, even at soft peaks!) and lingered over our warm beverages. Moose farkle, a Midwest dice game, entertained us until the wee hours, along with a bottle of aquavit, a Norwegian liqueur Mandy and Corey brought from Oslo. It was an evening I am truly thankful for; one I will remember for a long time to come.

This past week also saw the arrival of a new flatmate for us: Barmy Millie! No we didn't get a dog or cat; something even more exciting...I began my own sourdough starter! After all the time I've been spending at Real Bread, I've been inspired to start baking my own bread at home again, but this time I wanted to make my own starter and ditch the dry instant yeast. So, after consulting various bread gurus, I combined equal parts organic, stone-ground rye flour and London tap water, adding a cup of each every day for seven consecutive days. And like all bakers, and with the help of Mandy, I even named my starter: Barmy Millet or Barmy Millie for short. You can see Millie getting her daily feeding in the picture. Covered with a damp tea towel, she has been growing and festering for the last week emitting some very yeasty smells, and bubbling away, all signs of a healthy starter. I can't wait to make the first loaf! Nothing warms me to the core more than an oven full of bread!

As this past week throughout the UK has turned frigid, I've realized another important value of baking...heat! Our little oven warms our flat quicker and better than any of our tuckered out radiators. Part of what made Thanksgiving so wonderful and cozy was that while outside was hovering around freezing, our flat was made delightfully warm as the oven hummed away all day, cooking pies and turkey. London has been dodging the snow predictions of the past few days, until today. We woke up this morning to our backyard covered in a beautiful dusting, as if someone had sifted powdered sugar everywhere. I felt like a kid at Disneyland! At the library today, I was mesmerized, staring out the big glass windows at the thick snowflakes flying around outside; it was like being in a snow globe all day! The novelty and beauty of the snow is still new and fresh for me, so I love the snow. But as soon as the cold sneaks through my six layers and it's no longer beautiful, I know what to do: go home, make a cup of tea, turn on the oven, and start baking!

November has been a busy month, full of friends, work, studying, bubbling starter, and cold. One thing's for sure: this has been a month and year of plenty. And I give thanks, particularly to the bounty and warmth of the oven.

Monday, November 15, 2010

Reading Week, Denmark, RealBread--Stepping Back

Isn't it ironic how time set aside for catching up can tend to set you farther back because you cram too much catching-up-stuff in? This past week was reading week, a week of no classes intended for students to catch up on reading. Since I've been on top of my readings, we decided to take advantage of some bargain 10 pound airplane tickets to Arhus, Denmark for three days. It was beautiful! At right I am looking over Arhus Bay from Riis Kov, the orange carpeted forest we walked through to get to our hostel. It couldn't have been anymore beautiful. The crisp air and vibrant colors, it was pure rejuvenation.


It was also cold, hovering around freezing the entire time and snowing on us in Aalborg. But with my impenetrable six layers of clothes, decadent coffee/cafe culture, filling and complex beers, and rich, cinnamon-chocolate pastries, we couldn't have been made warmer!

Upon our return to England, we had a wonderfully polite and personable Spanish friend stay with us for a night. The following day I interviewed for an internship/volunteer position with the RealBread Campaign and it was such a perfect match, that I started three days later! I will work 16 hours a week, organizing Lessons for Loaf, a pilot program that puts bakers in primary school classrooms to give hands on demonstrations of traditional bread making. Saturday and Sunday we feasted with Alun who had come to visit for two days on his way back to Exeter from East Anglia. I made a spicy rogan josh, we enjoyed massive pizzas in Soho, and wonderful sausage and mash at home on Sunday. After attending a high Anglican-Catholic mass at All Saint's Church Sunday morning, we were delightfully surprised to be warmly invited for a gin and tonic after the service in the bar beneath the church! Our bubbly elderly host, Jean, asked if we wanted our drinks Protestant or Catholic (small or large pours) and described an enduring congregation devoted to community, inclusiveness, and equality. Looking around, I saw an incredible mix of people, it was certainly not the type of parishioners I would expect at a high Anglo-Catholic church. This is London: a place where communities defy boundaries, categories, and singular identities.

As I prepare now for classes this week and reflect back on reading week and all the reading I didn't do, I can't help but grumble, "what a lousy reading week, I didn't get anything done!" But as I think about the peaceful Arhus Bay, the merry pints shared, the communion over warm meals, and the many delightful surprises, I realize that I am actually farther ahead because of the opportunities and lessons that revealed themselves this week. Maybe taking a step back can propel you further ahead than any "catching up" can do.





Thursday, November 4, 2010

Guy Fawkes Day and Bonfire Toffee

I didn't know much about Guy Fawkes Night before arriving in England, other than that it involved lots of fireworks, bonfires, and burning of effigies. But as November 5th approached and I saw the growing anticipation and excitement of the holiday with each passing day, I realized that this wasn't just an excuse to play with explosives and fire, this was a serious English cultural celebration.

Guy Fawkes was a member of a Catholic conspiracy group who attempted to blow up Parliament and the Protestant King James I in the Gunpowder Plot of 1605. (They had placed 36 barrels of gunpowder under Parliament, enough to blow up the entire House of Commons, the king, and all the political elite--imagine how that would have changed history!). The plot was betrayed and foiled and the day has now turned into a day of celebration of English Protestantism, thanksgiving, and general revelry. (For more history and info, see link below).

The best part of most cultural celebrations to me, is of course, the food. Traditional Guy Fawkes foods include toffee apples, potato pie with pickled red cabbage, baked potatoes, and treacle desserts, including bonfire toffee and parkin. So to try to understand the spirit of Guy Fawkes night, I made some traditional bonfire toffee. Like usual toffee, this is made by cooking sugar to hard crack, but it is made with brown sugar and black treacle (molasses) which gives it an especially burnt and sharp flavor and makes it black, looking like bits of coal pulled from the bonfire. It's easy to make and although the taste is a bit surprising, after a few pieces it is really delicious! I brought the toffee to my foodie classmates on Friday and all of them, a range of nationalities and taste buds, decreed it to be delicious and ate many pieces. So try this toffee; as soon as you taste it you'll be able to imagine yourself surrounded by burning effigies in London!

Bonfire Toffee (Treacle Toffee)

4 oz. (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. water
1 Tbsp. white vinegar
1 lb. brown sugar
8 oz. (225 g) black treacle (or molasses)

Note: If you've made caramel or toffee before, this is very similar, but even easier! Like with making caramel, make sure you use a large, deep stainless steel pot, as the boiling sugar will rise and spit as it gets hotter and hotter. Even if you think your pot is too big, it's not; the sugar will grow, and it's a nightmare to clean up boiled-over cooked sugar, so go with your big pot. Non-stick, teflon pans will start to melt with prolonged high heat, so make sure you use a pot that is stainless steel, copper, or something with a high heat tolerance. Copper pots are ideal because they provide the most even distribution of heat.

Directions:
Put butter, water, and vinegar in a large pot over low heat and cook until butter is completely melted. Add brown sugar and treacle and stir with a wooden spoon until all sugar is moist and dissolved. Turn heat up to medium-high and cook for about 10 minutes, until mixture reaches 280F on a thermometer. Do NOT stir the liquid once you have turned up the heat and it starts to boil; stirring the boiling liquid can cause crystallization (leaving a granular texture) and also increases your chances of getting burned, so let it boil all on its own. As it approaches 280F the small bubbles will turn into thick glossy bubbles that leave large potholes in the sugar when they pop, like pancake batter just before you flip a pancake. When the temperature has been reached, very carefully pour the toffee into a buttered 6 or 7 inch square pan. The size and shape of the pan ultimately doesn't matter, it's just about how thick you want the toffee. I doubled this recipe and poured it into two different sized pans to play with the thickness. Make sure before you pour the toffee into the pan that you have the pan positioned in a safe, cool place for the toffee to sit and cool; once the toffee is in the pan, the pan is too hot and dangerous to move. Let cool completely (overnight) and then break into pieces with a hammer or sharp knife. I also read instructions in an old British recipe from 1922 to turn out the toffee while warm but not too hot to handle. Stretch into sticks and cut into 1 inch pieces.

For more info about Toffee Treacle:

For more detailed info about Guy Fawkes Night and the Gunpowder Plot:

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Verdi's Ice Cream Intermission

Ryan and I have recently discovered the secret to experiencing the wealth of London's cultural scene on a starving-student budget: "restricted view seats." Many cultural venues offer at least a handful of seats at ridiculously reduced rates due to a slightly obstructed view, ranging from sitting behind a pillar to a peculiarly placed arm rail. And so, with this new knowledge, Ryan and I found ourselves primping and preening ourselves on Monday evening in preparation for the London Philharmonic's Verdi's Requiem with Bart's Choir at the Royal Albert Hall, all for the price of 6 quid each! For a price that low, we'll sit behind a pillar any day!

Our excitement and anticipation for this performance had been building and building for days. I was especially looking forward to the opportunity to dress up and experience some fine music, a welcome contrast to the scruffy, hermit-student listening to iTunes that I have turned into.

We took the tube and walked from Knightsbridge station along Hype Park. As the Royal Albert came into full view, we stopped in awe and took in the majestically grand Victorian architecture of the rotunda, made even more dramatic by the night lighting.

We climbed to the top level for our seats and were ecstatic to find that we had the best seats in the house! They're selling these for 6 pounds? Are they crazy?! There was indeed a bar obstructing our view of the lower right part of the stage, but we could see the entire hall beautifully and had prime views of the singers, percussion (very important for Verdi's Requiem), and organ pipes. Needless to say, we were tickled pink. And the music hadn't even started yet. Once the music did start, I was even more amazed as the music seemed to transport me to a celestial world that was deeply moving and powerful.


By the time intermission rolled around I didn't think it was possible to be any more surprised or amazed. But as I walked to the ladies' loo, I saw a couple of ladies eating Haagen-Dazs out of mini ice cream cartons. What?! I blinked my eyes hard, not believing what I saw, and looked again. Sure enough, elegantly dressed ladies were eating spoonful after spoonful of ice cream, and as I looked around, so was everyone else! "What's going on here? Is this really heaven? Verdi and ice cream?"
Apparently, it is quite common to eat ice cream at intermissions and is somewhat of a tradition that Ryan has experienced at other theatrical events throughout England. How brilliant!! I couldn't be more surprised and delighted! I love the mid-theater-performance-ice-cream-eating British!

It was an evening full of wonder and magic. But perhaps nothing was quite so dreamlike and surreal as eating ice cream straight out of the carton in my fanciest clothes at the Royal Albert Hall.